Bahamas Trip Week 5 5/20 - 5/24

Bahamas Trip Week 5 – 5/20 to 5/24

 

Wednesday – The main plan for the day was to explore Warderwick Wells.  In preparation for going up BooBoo Hill, Tom took a piece of driftwood and painted “Greeks Folly” on the wood.  We discovered that black magic marker fades and weathers in the sun so Tom used nail polish.  He is hoping the lettering will last.  Because this is a no take, no place, park, the policy is to take nothing and to leave nothing on the natural cays.  This hill is the only place that cruisers are permitted, even encouraged to leave a “piece” of themselves.  We hiked the hill, left our sign, experienced “Blow holes”, and hiked the island. 

Following traditions of those who have gone before us we place our sign on Boo Boo Hill

 

The trails on the island are sparsely marked.  In some places there is a faint yellow line to mark the path; in other places there are rock towers to indicate when we were on the correct path.  The island has dense foliage, steep ridges, volcanic like rocks and poisonwood trees.  It was a hot, sweaty hike but also interesting, adventuresome and challenging. 

Beautiful water from the cliffs of Warderick Wells Cay

Another Bahamian aid to navigation to help you find your way

 

 After a quick dip to cool off, we went back to the boat.  While there we observed that our good friends, Wally and Mary Sue on Beulah Belle had pulled into the anchorage.  (They were our first cruising partner and buddy boat on the rivers)  We dinghied over and enjoyed chatting and catching up with their travels and plans for their Exuma Island visit.  Tom, the fish, snorkeled off the back of the boat and was adopted by a spotted snapper fish which stared at him, followed him around, and even stayed off the back of the boat when Tom got out of the water.  Tom enjoyed swimming with his new friend. 

Thursday – Sea Angel – Peter and Nancy decided they wanted to go home. We will try to make it back during this weather window before the winds change on Monday.  Because of that, the next few days will be long travel days and will be tiring.  We have mixed feeling about heading home; we discuss some options, and decided that we will travel with them and head home too.  We pull out at 0830 and head to Nassau.  This is not our preference because the cruising guide states that this city can be dangerous and the crime rate is high.  Yet, we headed there anyway.  Sea Angel secures slips for us at Nassau Yacht Haven.  To our pleasant surprise, the dock master is helpful, friendly and patient with us.  Upon his suggestion we decide on an early dinner and happy hour at the Poop Deck.  We have a wonderful time meeting some famous locals.  Tom chats with Norm Benemy, a local businessman while Colletta chats with a 90 year old man, Bumpy, who was an officer of the first police force.  He shared his personal history (5 wives and 75 children) and experiences.  He autographed and gave Colletta his published memoirs.  She enjoyed the whole experience.  After some conch bites and cocktails at the bar, we enjoyed a delicious dinner.  We were back on the boat before dark and did enjoy the whole experience. 

Friday – After asking permission from harbor control, we left downtown Nassau and headed into the Tongue of the Ocean and over to Hogs Cay in the Berrie Islands.  The ocean was calm and the water was beautiful – a nice, but again, a long ride.  We decided to moor at the Berrie Island Club for the evening.  This marina is basic, at best – no electricity, but dockage for 4 boats and 2 mooring balls.  The marina was just purchased by new owners and they had not put any money into it.  It was nice to have a dock and by the end of the day there were 2 other boats besides us staying there so the marina was full.  Tom, Nancy and Colletta decided to take a walk and go to the beach on the other side of the island.  The path was a stone road, somewhat overgrown and we did not see any other people.  The beach however was beautiful.  It allowed us to do some shelling and Tom spent most of his time snorkeling among some 2 foot sharks.  After dinner we relaxed on the back of the boat.  Driving without autopilot can be a very tiring experience – and this was just the beginning.

Nassau Harbor Lighthouse

Atlantis Hotel on Paradise Island

No one said living in paradise was not hard work

Calm waters crossing the Tongue of the Ocean on our way to the Berrie Islands

 

 

Saturday – Another long travel day to Bimini so we left at first light, this was 0615.  The winds were slowly starting to increase as predicted but most of the time we had a following sea.  We miscalculated and were hoping to get a slip in Bimini for the weekend; however we forgot about the Memorial Day weekend.  The place was packed, no slips available in any of the 6 marinas and boats were already anchored on the leeward side of the island for the evening.  It was 1615, the sun was still shining and a decision had to be made.  We decided to head back to Florida.  It would be a 7 hour ride, we would have 4 more hours of light but we would arrive in the dark.  The seas were 2-4 feet and building after midnight.  The weather forecast was also strong winds for the next 5 days so we would have been stuck in Bimini waiting for another weather window.  This trip was stressful and tiring with having to steer the whole way, but in hindsight it was good we made the crossing.  We headed into Fort Lauderdale port, which was very difficult for us.  We did not know what the port looked like in the daylight, much less at night with all the city lights, oceangoing barges moored at the mouth of the harbor and the activity just inside the channel.  Tom, the captain, did a masterful job of navigating and brought us safely to a small cove, Lake Sylvia, right off the main channel of the ICW.  We were anchored in this cove with 14 other boats, another sign of the holiday weekend.  We were exhausted after navigating on the water for 17 hours.  With the anchor secure, we had a beer to relax our nerves and then fell into bed.

Sunday – In a normal situation, we do not like to boat on the ICW on the weekends because of all the boat traffic and “crazies” out there.  We had no choice and also wanted to get home to Jupiter to our own comfortable slip.  The crazies were definitely out today and we were very careful, both with our own wake and with all the boat traffic.  It was slow going as many of the bridges needed to be lifted for us as well as the other boats.  It was also somewhat entertaining.  There were boats everywhere!! 

Proceeding north from Fort Lauderdale on the Intercoastal waterway

Bridge is up.... and there off!

 There were a lot of people in every single boat and everyone was in the mood to party on the water.  There were wall-to-wall boats both at Boca Raton and Peanut Island:  so much so that you could walk to shore from boat to boat and never get wet. 

North side of Peanut Island in Riviera Beach

More Peanut Island



These guys, just slightly over served , cruised with us north

 It was a wonderful to finally round the bend and see Jupiter Cove.  At that moment however, the skies let loose and it started to downpour and the winds blew.  We were close but still not home.  We drove around in circles for a while, waiting for the rain to stop and the winds to diminish.  Finally, both happened and we headed in.  Jim Ginter was waiting for us on the dock – a nice welcome.  Docked at 1930.

 

This completes not only our Bahamas trip but also our travels for the year.  We will get Greeks Folly repaired, cleaned and any other necessary work done on her.  The boat will then be stored on the hard until our return to her in January of 2016 when our travels will continue and we will once more be on our adventures of The Great Loop.

Week 4 Bahama Trip 5/13 - 5/19

Bahamas Trip Week 4 – 5/13 to 5/19

 

Wednesday – Tom decided to cook a good breakfast before our exploring adventures.  While he was finishing and just making coffee the generator crapped out.   The diesel kept running but no electrical output.  We have to go to back-up plan. It is a good thing we are a 12 volt boat so we still have refrigeration and can work off the main batteries which the engines will recharge.  We snorkeled at the Sea Aquarium which is part of the Exuma Land and Sea Park. It is a no-take park which means no fishing, no shelling, take only photos and leave only footprints.  The aquarium had great snorkeling, diverse fish population, and large variety of coral and calm waters.  Upon returning to Cambridge we went ashore and hiked thru the island to the other side and saw rocked and sand beaches.  We dinghied to Compass Cay and walked to Rachel’s Bubble bath.  This was a spot between the rocks where when high tide, the waves crashed thru the rocks and formed a hot tub bubbles without the hot.  Lots of stars at night.

Rachel's Bubble Bath

 

Thursday – Tom, Nancy and Colletta went out beach exploring and hiked on a trail.  The trail was identified by Bahamian markers – usually a single upright stick.  Once on the trail, the path is well marked with conch shells, timbers and rocks.  A fun way to travel.  The middle of the island is dense and somewhat jungle like until it breaks out on the other side of the island.  Nancy and Colletta explored for treasures and Tom swam with a small shark.  We decided to go back to snorkel again.  As we headed over, the clouds turned dark.  We violated the first rule of boating- always close hatches and doors.  After about 10 minutes of snorkeling, the skies opened and the rain fell – all over us and into the hatches and doors of the boat, as we later discovered.  The rain temp was colder than the ocean, so we continued to snorkel rather than sit in the dingy and just get rained upon.  Because we got cold in the water, we decided to let the rain rinse us so we headed back to the boat in the steady drizzle.  As we approached the boat, the rain stopped but we still had a small mess to clean once we got aboard – we will not forget to close up again.

He was a friendly shark as I still have all my fingers and toes

These guys were snorkeling with us when the heavens opened. I bet some crew member closed their hatches.

Friday-We left Cambridge Cay and 0953.  We exited south which was an easier and more straightforward route.  We had a following sea so the ride was calm and arrived at 1151 at Staniel Cay Yacht Club where we pulled into a long face dock behind Sea Angel.  A new adventure.  It is a very nice facility with a lot of amenities but they charge for everything, including tossing garbage.  We had lunch at the yacht club, food was good and décor was very “island like”.  Back at boat, Colletta defrosted freezing compartment of the refrig – lots of ice.  We played Rummy cubes with Peter and Nancy.  We also went to yacht club bar for a beer and enjoyed the local color and fun activity.

Saturday – Got up and went to the grocery store to get fresh produce but the boat had not arrived so all we bought was some homemade bread. 

The Pink Pearl Market

 

We took a quick drip in the very small pool and it felt great.  As we checked out, there was a major discrepancy in the charge for electricity.  After much discussion, and a lack of compromise and fruitless negotiation, the final charge was a flat rate of $75.  We will not be back with the boat. 

The complaint dept. at the marina.

 

 We went to Big Major Spot anchorage – 2 miles north of the yacht club.  A beautiful anchorage with lots of boats, all sizes.  Our next adventure was to snorkel Thunderball Grotto – of James Bond movie fame.  At low tide we were able to snorkel directly into the cave.  Tom brought cat food for the fish and they loved it and swarmed him as soon as he opened the bag.  Not one catfish was sighted! There was some current, so Colletta hung onto the side of the wall as Tom adventured and explored. 

The famous grotto from the James Bond movie of the same name

The entrance to the grotto. The villain Lagos from the movie was not home.

 

 

We then took a long ride exploring around various cays and thru one cut with incredible current, so strong that the throttle was wide open just to make forward progress.  One cay is Sampson Cay which is now a private island but use to have a marina and restaurant.  Now it has large signs that say Keep Out and No Trespassing. Not very friendly.   We use ¾ a tank of gas before it was time to come back to the boat.  Slept well that night after all our adventures.

Sunday – We planned on heading into Staniel Cay for more exploring, but changed our minds after the strong winds and waves splashed us and got us wet.  We turned around and headed back to the boat, got our beach supplies and head to middle beach, also known as Pirate Beach.  One of the large yachts had a small catered birthday party on the beach but did not even offer us a beer.  We survived just fine however with our beach umbrella, lovely blue water and our own light refreshments.  Tom snorkeled, napped, and then we met another couple, David and Linda- from Augusta GA.  They have been coming to the Exumas for 16 year and shared their many experiences and local knowledge. We enjoyed talking with them. (They too are having generator problems).  We agreed to cook dinner on Sea Angel and use their generator, so we took all the supplies and Tom made his favorite dinner of Balsamic Chicken.  They enjoyed it and so did we.  Another good night sleep followed.

a day at the beach looking out at the Big Major Spot anchorage with all sizes of boats

 

Monday – We dinghied back to Staniel Cay and hiked the windward (ocean) side of the island.  Very rocky and desolate on the cliff with large breaking waves down below.  We finally hiked to find a small beach and climbed down the cliff.  The sand had large granules and no shells.  We walked to the road and went back to the dinghies which we left at the abandoned Thunderball Club – a restaurant and pier.  It was curious that the dock was in good condition, silverware and china on the shelves, like the owners just walked away.  We decided to dinghy back to the yacht club and dinghy dock and walk into town to pick up a few provisions.  We pulled the dinghies up on shore, got our supplies and Tom and I had one more beer at the yacht club.  Upon our departure, the tide had gone out which left our dingy high and dry.  We put out the anchor when we arrived and picked it up off the dry sand when we left.  Back at the boat, Tom scrubbed the bottom, Colletta relaxed. 

 Big Major Spot is famous for one more thing – swimming pigs.  Boaters bring their food scraps to shore and the pigs come right out on the beach, walk into the water and wait to be feed.  We actually had a pig almost climb into the dinghy in search for food.  Tom yelled at him and pushed him away.  The pigs are feed all day long and every day so they are very domesticated.  One large piglet seemed to have great interested on how the dinghy tasted, nibbling on the motor, the lanyard and on the weaver clamps. Quite a fun adventure.

Feeding the pigs and making friends

Talking about bacon. overall a unique experience

 

Exploring the windward side of Staniel Cay

A Bahamian trail marker telling you which way to go?

Checking a map to make sure we were not as lost as we thought we were

 

This is what happens when you come ashore at high tide and the tide goes out. Luckily Colletta is strong and can drag the dinghy back to the water

Tuesday –Left in the morning and had an easy ride to Warderwick Wells.  This cay is the base of the Exuma  Land and Sea Park.  The ranger station is here and it is also one of the most popular anchorages in the park.  We were lucky and had a mooring ball available for us.  We picked it up (we are getting pretty good at this – or just really lucky) and were secure in the anchorage.  We registered and finally spoke with the park manager – we have heard her voice on the radio for the last 10 days. Once settled in, we hiked up the famous BooBoo Hill.  It is famous because it is the only place in the park in which cruisers can leave a “piece” of themselves.  (More about that tomorrow) The hill also gives a wonderful view of the island and anchorage.  After a relaxing afternoon on the back boat deck, we went back into shore for evening cocktails.  The main purpose was to see the Hutia which appear at dusk.  A hutia is a small furry animal – kind of like a larger version of a guinea pig.  They are not bashful and come to the picnic table looking for food and friendly people.  The hutia is an endangered species and this is the only island in which they are found – we only saw 3.  The evening was cut short due to the bugs and no-see-ums arriving so we returned to the boats. 

The hutia ( looks like a guinea pig to me)

 

Bahamas Trip Week 3 – 5/6 to 5/12

 

Wednesday – We decided to stay another day because of the rainout yesterday.  Also the weather forecast for Thursday is even better for traveling and anchoring.  We climbed the 101 steps of the lighthouse; Tom kicked the door open to the balcony on the top of the lighthouse to enjoy the views.  We surveyed the harbor and town, took some pictures and enjoyed the sunshine.  We rented a golf cart and went exploring on the island.  We dinghied to the other side, met our “carriage” and were off.  We traveled the length of the 7 mile island, stopping at marinas, restaurants, small grocery stores and overlooks of the ocean along the way.  We lunched at Sea Spray marina on the patio.  This marina is on the far south end of the island in White Sound.  A long way from town but worth the drive.  We explored our way back to the boat, looking for a road to our marina only to discover there was none.  We did see the dump, derelict boats, marginal roads thru the jungle and a few friendly faces.  We abandoned our quest and returned to town and our boats.  Did a quick change into our suits and headed back to the beach to swim in the ocean.  We enjoyed the water, strolling on the sand and a visit to Hope Town Harbor Lodge. The evening was complete by sitting on the back of our boat with a couple of cocktails.  

Thursday – Left Hope town at 0920 for Snake Cay to do some snorkeling.  Arrived at 1106, dropped the dinghy and proceeded up behind Snake Cay.  It was interesting but other than a few starfish, not much there.  Pulled anchor and went 6 miles to Sandy Cay.  It was rocky and rolly but we decided not to snorkel but Sea Angel did.  Tom scrubbed the water line of the boat because it really needed it, because it was last done at Marco Island.  Mainly grass and green slim on the bottom.  Still have to scrub the bottom. We pulled the anchor for a second time and proceeded to Little Harbor where we put the dinghies in again and went into Pete’s Pub and the Johnston bronze foundry and gallery.  The works were all very nice and also very expensive.  While waiting for burgers, we noticed a large Hermit crab in a small shell.  We decided to offer him a new home.

Our hermit crab in his new shell. Complements of Colletta and her shelling

 (We had done some shelling)  To our utmost surprise, the crab liked the new real estate, and moved into his new larger home.  The burgers were excellent and the crab was happy.  As the evening progressed an unusual collection of characters arrived at the tiki bar.  With a fishing tournament going on, there was quite a variety of people there.  

Pete's Pub, the only bar on the island

 We returned to the boat at 1926, and although the seas appeared calm, the wind shifted and the surge from the ocean began and the boat rocked again.  A most uncomfortable night.

Friday – Left at 0730.  Seas were large swells which made for a slightly rolly ride.  At one point we crossed in front of a large ocean container ship and also passed behind an ocean-going tug towing a large barge with three levels of containers on it.  You would think with all this water, there would be plenty of water space for everyone.  Why they are attracted to us, we do not know.

Ocean tug towing a barge loaded with containers

Ocean going ship that crossed right behind us crossing to Eleuthera

  At 1320, we sighted Eluethera 9 miles out.  We arrived at Spanish Wells at 1600, and went to the commercial fuel dock to get fuel.  By the time we finished and proceeded to Spanish Wells Yacht Haven it was 1715.  Yacht Haven is somewhat of a misnomer but it is the only place in town.  Tom and Peter walked around town, Colletta and Nancy did some shelling.  Later that evening we return to a house which had a soft serve ice cream machine in its front yard.  It had been a family business for a number of years, now being run by the teenage grandchildren.  Flavors of the day were cheesecake and strawberry.  We had both!

Saturday – Left at 0940 to travel to Allen’s Cay about 52 miles south.  The Dave Gallagher Memorial Fishing tournament commenced at 1100 with lines in the water waiting for dinner to arrive.  Like Dave, always hopeful.  First fish was 1128, we landed a 2 ½ foot barracuda, but we threw him back.  Fish on again at 1143.  Colletta fought this one, using the fishing belt to hold the rod, but the fish spit the hook.  At 1430, we began to encounter coral heads which forced us to be very attentive to drive around them.  At 1702 we pulled into the Allen’s Cay anchorage and parked next to R/V Coral Reef II from the Shredd Aquarium in Chicago.

The Shedd Aquarium's research vessel at our anchorage. Asked us if we had any Chicago style pizza or hot dogs.

  We dinghied to one of the island by way of the research vessel and spoke with the students to find out what the program consisted of.  Turned out one of the instructors was from Tinley Park – small world.  The island was home to iguanas – one of only two locations in the entire Bahamas were they roam.  The iguanas walk right out on the beach, and are use to human visitors who often feed them.  They sat on rocks catching the last warm rays of the sun. 

one of the iguana's we saw. they were quite used to humans on their beach

Catching a few rays to stay warm

 While walking the shoreline, we also saw 2 spotted rays in about 2 feet of water, slowly eating and casually swimming around.   Another rolly night at anchor - seems to be a recurring theme.

Sunday – We are moving to Shroud Cay to try to get better protection from the wind.  We departed at 1001.  Along the way, we spoke with 4-58’ identical Sea Rays from Fort Myers/Naples area.   At 1230 we arrived at Shroud Cay where we picked up our first mooring ball.  It only took 2 attempts, which was a great success.  Once settled we dropped the dingy and headed to explore.   A distinction of Shroud Cay is the many creeks which crisscross the island.  We headed to the northern creek which took us across the island to the Exuma Sound side where we explored.  We climbed to the top of a hill and located Camp Driftwood. 

An attractive native girl at Camp Driftwood

 Not really a camp but the views were breathtaking- the many shades of blue water, the white beaches and the blue sky.  

The water colors are  incredibly

Tom cooked a great dinner then headed to Sea Angel to learn a new game – Rummy Cube - Very fun.

Monday- Decided to stay another day and explore another creek.  Located a fresh water well, not very well marked.  The water didn’t taste too bad and given the choice of dying of thirst, it was very good tasting water. 

Looking into the fresh water well

 We beached the dinghies, did a little snorkeling, not seeing much, and sitting under an umbrella on the beach.  Later we explored a creek, in an attempt to again cross the island and return to Camp Driftwood.  We traveled to a dead end, when we realized we missed the Bahamian navigational aid -a 3 foot stick in the sand.  We made the correction and followed this creek and it did take us again to Camp Driftwood and the cut to the ocean. 

Following the creek looking for aids to navigation

 We played in the currents, met another couple who just arrived via 60ft catamaran from New Zealand, and eventually returned safely back to our boat.  After a wonderful dinner, of course the winds increased for another rocky, rolly night aboard Greeks Folly.

Tuesday - Departed Shroud Cay at 0924 and pulled into Cambridge Cay at 1318. The trip was bumpy because we had to go thru the Big Cut which is exposed to the ocean.  The boat got covered with a lot of sea salt that day.  When we pulled in we picked up a mooring ball on the first attempt.  Traveled 26 nautical miles.  We relaxed the rest of the day and enjoyed the beautiful scenery.

Bahamas Trip Week 2 – 4/30 to 5/5

 

Wednesday – Rainy day.  Tom helped Pete on Once Around with a “head” problem on his boat.  They used all the paper towels he had on board and even one roll we had.  They had a big #1 problem with the #2 business.    The wind was still here and the humid air made it feel like it could storm any minute – but today the storm never came.  The 3 couples got together in the Jib room and played dominos most of the afternoon, even Tom played today.   The Jib room hosted their weekly barb b q buffet.  The food was excellent.  The rib meat just fell off the bone, served with baked beans, potato salad and coleslaw.  We were entertained by one man “rake and scrape” band that played a saw.  Desmond then amazed us with his limbo dancing.  Our ankles and knees don’t bend that way.  He is 42 and we could not limbo like him when we were 22. 

Thursday – We pulled the dinghy up on the dock and Tom worked his magic on it to repair the davit attachment pad.  The glue has to set up for 2 days.  The girls want to shop, so Pete took them into town in his dinghy, with the idea that the guys would meet them for lunch.  We met at Snappas for fish.  Some then returned to the boats by dinghy and the others walked thru town and then a mile around the harbor back to the marina.  The town has a great hardware store and well stocked grocery store with great selection but with Bahamian prices (which means everything is much more expensive.)  Back at the boat we relaxed, read in the evening and basically did nothing.  The sail boaters have a habit of announcing sunset with the blowing of air into a conch shell which then makes a horn like noise.  The sound echoes across the harbor and is answered by other sail boaters.  A nice sound in the islands.

Friday – Beautiful Day.  Sun shining and winds are calm. The birds sing every morning and talk to each other.  If is a wonderful sound to wake up to! Tom changed the spark plugs in the outboards and worked on the rudders. Colletta cleaned the inside of the boat and tended to her chores. We enjoyed short walk, a dip in the pool and then Pete and Tom went snorkeling a on a small reef opposite the harbor.  A new chicken recipe was tried for dinner and the evening was enjoyable on the back deck of the boat. 

Saturday – Got up early to do necessary preparation for departure.  Tom unwrapped the clamps for the dinghy to find the davit attachment appeared to be solid.  Loaded the dingy on the boat and settled bill with marina.   Said good byes to Pete and Beverly on Once Around and departed at 0940. With a short uneventful trip to Man-O-War marina at 1100 we arrived to get the last available slip.  To our pleasure we discovered that Lollygagger was parked next to us – Mary Helen and Harvey from Tarpon Springs.  We explored the island and enjoyed lunch at Hibiscus Café (Chicken in da bag- a Bahamian specialty).  We shopped all of the stores because they are closed on Sundays.  The Albury family is famous for their boat building and has been on the island for generations.   We were also disappointed to discover that Lola, the bread baker, had retired at 80 years old.  No pastries for us.  Watched the Kentucky Derby on Sea Angel.  Cable TV is free in this marina if you borrow a converter box – maybe tomorrow.

An example of the lovely tropical flowers we saw

Sunday – Tom put dinghy in first thing this morning in preparation to go snorkeling.  Motor started right up and seemed to be running good.  We went to an unusual church service – started with good songs   and then the guest minister started “laying on of hands for healing” so we got out quickly.  We took the two dinghies to the north end of Man –of-War cay and anchored and went snorkeling.  This was a place that Peter and Nancy have been to before in which they found a lot of sea biscuits.  We found some this time too.

Sea Biscuits from our snorkeling

 

  A few fish around but mostly sea grass with a few starfish scattered on top.  We continued our adventures by exploring the south anchorage where a lot of boats were anchored.  Back at the boat Tom and I did prep work for dinner.  We serve pork tenderloin cooked on the grill and 2 kinds of potatoes.  Mary Helen from Lollygagger joins us and the five of us enjoy a delicious dinner with lively conversation.

Harvey and Mary Helen's boat Lollygagger. Sorry we missed Harvey

 

  The night cap included Pyrat rum and Tom shares with it with friends.  A wonderful evening.

The local grocery store and bakery.

 

Monday – Tom walked to check for fresh bread but none was available til afternoon so we said our goodbyes and proceeded to Hope Town.  We got in around noon.  We took Sea Angel’s dinghy and went across the harbor into town.  The only way to get to town is with a dinghy cause the marinas are one side of the harbor, town on the other, with a mooring field in-between so there are a lot of dinghies and small boats buzzing around. First thing we did was to walk the beach and stare at the beautiful blue ocean.   Strolled and shopped around the cute little town.  We stopped at Vernon’s grocery and got homemade bread and Nancy bought key Lime pie.  After dinner we went to Sea Angel and taught them how to play Racko.  We didn’t beat them too bad because afterwards they shared their key lime pie with us.  It was yummy with a traditional crust and meringue topping. 

Peter and Nancy from Sea Angel on a explore

Harbor at Hopetown with the lighthouse

Tuesday – The rain wakes us at 0230 with a continuous, hard downpour.  Slowly the wind starts to subside but the rain continues.  In the morning the clouds are gray, it rains in intervals and you can tell it will last all day.  The boats in the mooring field have all shifted and continue to shift around and point different directions throughout the day.  As we look at the striped lighthouse, the adjacent flag on the pole is completely limb due to lack of wind and weight of being wet.  Next time we look, it is waving in a different direction.  We think of going into town or for a walk only to hear the rain start up again.  A few boats come and go but mostly just the public ferries dropping off a few visitors but mostly working people.  Tom has crawled back in bed and is once again napping: its only 1100.  Finally by 1430, Tom gets up and the rain stops again but this time the skies get brighter.  We take our umbrellas and decide to walk over to the resort to look around and stretch our legs.  We explore a little and end up at the outside bar with Peter and Nancy joining us too.   After some conch bites and conch chowder we return to the boat and hope for a better weather day tomorrow. 

The beach at Hopetown

 

 

Bahamas Trip Week 1 - Wednesday 4/22 til Tuesday 4/29

 

 Wednesday - We were anchored in Lake Worth while Sea Angel went to get a slip at Riveria Beach Marina so they could get their generator repaired.  We handled various issues; insurance, Bahaman cell phone coverage, and storage for boat in August.  We also talked to Once Around (Peter and Beverly) and they moved from Old Port Cove to Lake Worth. We had an entertaining day watching mega yachts go by and local activity.  Sea Angel gave us their blessing to make the crossing without them so we made plans with Once Around to make the crossing in the morning.

Some of our food stores. Don't think we will be hungry ?

One of the ships leaving Port of Palm Beach for points unkown with some large boats on board

One of the yachts that passed us at anchor in Lake Worth

 

Thursday -We left at 0630 and we are off to the Bahamas.  Cleared the Palm Beach inlet at 0650 and entered the ocean.  The weather was true to the forecast and seas were very calm with light winds.  We charted a course of 115 degrees to take into consideration the 3 knot current of the gulf stream and headed SE of our destination.  At 1055 we reached our half way point, 28 nautical miles to go.  At 1315, we sighted the islands, still 10 miles out.  At 1439 we arrived at Old Bahama Bay marina, into a slip and a victory beer.  We covered 56 nautical miles.  Late afternoon, Sea Angel arrived, their generator fixed.  We lay in a hammock and enjoyed being in the islands. 

Departing Palm Beach inlet

Sunrise on the gulf

In the Bahamas

Selfie in the hammock

Once Around, our buddy boat departing Lake Worth headed for the Bahamas

Arrriving West End, Grand Bahama Island

Old Bahama Bay Marina in West End

 

They had an adult size chess game we played

 

Friday – We departed 1053 with our buddy boats and headed to Double Breasted Cay – 51 miles away.  Another long ride.  We cut through Little Bahama Bank and encountered beam seas which made for an uncomfortable ride.  We made many course changes trying for a more comfortable ride and still reach our destination.  We arrived at Double Breasted Cay at 1819 and took two tries and 100 feet of chain to set the anchor.  We just settled into a gin and tonic when we received a call from Sea Angel for help.  Nancy had fallen and cut her forehead badly.  We dinghy over (via rowing) with medical supplies.  Peter called Rosie on Grand Cay and they came out with a fast boat to transport Nancy to the clinic where she had 5 stitches and returned back to the boat in less than 1 ½ hours.  Faster service than the states and cheaper – all for $85.  The gin and tonics tasted even better that night.

Double Breasted Cay ( pronounced Key)

The water is incredibly blue and aquamarine

Bahamian courtesy flag which you must fly while in the Bahamas

 

 

Saturday – 0901 started engines.  Sea Angel surprised us in that they wanted to move to a dock on Spanish Cay – another 7 hour run. We planned on anchoring out on Allans-Pensacola Cay.  On our way, Sea Angel changed their plans and decided to anchor with us.  At 1200, another change of plans.  The weather forecast makes our anchorage choice poor due to weather and wind conditions changing.   We, too, are heading for the marina at Spanish Cay after all.  At 1220, saw first sea turtle.  SW waves are off the bow which makes for a smoother ride.  Colletta is able to sit with me on the fly bridge today, nice company, and cats are sleeping.  Good conditions for another long day.  Arrived at 1549 after 46 nautical miles.  Ate dinner at the marina restaurant – fresh tuna caught that afternoon.  Ping pong and shuffle board in the bar closed out the evening.

Spanish Cay Marina. nice people managing it but $ 2.99 per foot per night and so rough in the marina the guy in the sailboat next to us slept in a chair on the dock

The gang after dinner playing shuffleboard.

This is the carcass of the tuna we had for dinner being fed to the sharks in the marina. Our cats did not get off the boat here.

Nobody said living in paradise was easy work.

 

 

Sunday –The wind blew!!! 20 to 25 mph winds kept us at the dock.  We went for a walk around the island to the airstrip.  Saw the generator, airport, a few houses on the privately owned island and a beautiful beach.  Overall an under-utilized facility.  A dip in the pool, played Mexican train and steaks on the” barbie” did not prepare us for another night or rocking and rolling.  Tom slept on the couch in the salon and Colletta in the V-bunk due to the slapping of the waves on the stern.

Monday – Wind is still blowing but we are leaving anyway – this marina is too expensive for our wallet.  At 0820 we departed from the slip with the assistance of 2 dock hands and a prayer, backed out of the slip, down the channel, spun the boat around and headed out onto the Bank.  A new record was set for dock lines – 7 on the starboard side.  We discussed the plan to exit the slip, executed it as planned, the boat handed the experience better than the captain and crew.  The ride to Green Turtle was overall comfortable but windy.  We arrived at Bluffhouse Marina at 1050 after traveling 17 nautical miles.  Walked to the restaurant on the beach, had lunch, enjoyed the beach and water and again a dip in the pool.  After a restful afternoon, we pulled the dinghy up onto the dock in preparation for repairs in the morning.  We met for a drink on the deck to plan tomorrow’s activities.  Change of plans again – we are leaving in the morning, weather permitting, going thru the “whale” and on to Marsh Harbor.  The repairs to the dinghy will have to wait. “Tomorrow is another day.”.



Now this is what paradise is supposed to look like.

 

Tuesday – Departed Bluffhouse marina at 0920. Entered the Whale Passage, which we heard so much about, at 1037.  The Whale passage is a passage where the boater must travel from the Sea of Abaco into the Atlantic Ocean, around Whale Cay, and then back into the Sea of Abaco.  The passage is only 3 miles but if the wind and current are going the wrong direction, the passage can be brutal.  The Whale was well behaved this day as we passed it with only 1 to 2 foot waves. We heard so much about this passage that we were apprehensive but things worked out fine.  We followed Once Around and Sea Angel into Marsh Harbor Marina.  The trip was only 24 miles.  We were pleased to get slips as the weather forecast was for storms.  The storms arrived around 1530 with stiff winds of 50 mph and rain.  The winds blew off bimini canvas tops and unfurled sails.  We bounced and rocked in our slip but no damage was done. 

The famous "Whale". No large elephant sized waves today. Easy crossing on the way to  Marsh Harbor

At the Jib Room at Marsh Harbor Marina. 85 cents per foot per night, $ 4.00 a day for water and metered electric. This might be heaven. Great marina with great people

Marsh Harbor Marina. They do catamaran charters out of here also so we met some interesting people